The New River begins high in the Blue Ridge Mountains in North Carolina, crosses Virginia, and enters West Virginia near its southernmost tip. It then heads straight north to meet the Gauley and form the Kanawha. In so doing it manages to transect every ridge in the Alleghenies. Its name is actually a misnomer in that, geologically, it is one of the world's oldest rivers. Prior to the time of glaciation, the river, known as Teays, flowed even farther north to the vicinity of the present Great Lakes. Actually, the Ohio, which didn't exist then, should be called the New, and the New should be called the Old. Where it cuts across the place called the Narrows in Virginia, near the state line, some of the oldest rocks in the East have been exposed.

The river flows in a comparatively straight line through West Virginia and drains a tremendous watershed. It has scores of small tributaries, but only two are significant, the Bluestone and the Greenbrier. It has long been a major route of exploration and travel, and one of the major railroad lines in the state follows it closely. The river flows through a rugged canyon most of the way through the state, breaking out into a broad valley only as it merges with the Gauley River at Gauley Bridge. As a result, most of the route is unsettled -- there is little industry (except coal mining) and no agriculture to speak of. Mostly this area is a recreation attraction, one of the state's most popular ones.

The New in its entire West Virginia length passes through only one major city, Hinton, a former lumber and railroad center. This in itself is remarkable. Other cities such as Beckley, Oak Hill and Fayetteville are nearby but are by no means river cities. There are very few towns or access points of any kind on the New, so the twentieth-century anachronism of Thurmond stands out like a sore thumb. It began as a coal and railroad center at the turn of the century in an area fabulously wealthy in natural resources. The only way in and out of the town of five hundred hardy souls was via the railroad as there were no roads in those days. It was a lawless town somewhat akin to Dodge City of the Old West. Its infamous one hundred-room Dunglen Hotel was host to the longest continuous poker game in history, lasting some fourteen years! Women, booze, dice and cards were brought in fresh every day, while unlucky losers of arguments over the same were quietly disposed of in the New. Two old sayings survive that describe the town colorfully:"No Sunday west of Clifton Forge and no God west of Hinton" and "The only difference between Hell and Thurmond is that a river runs through Thurmond."

In more recent years, Thurmond and Fayetteville have become sporting towns. Whitewater rafting is a big business now, with dozens of companies plying their trade on summer weekends. The cliffs of the Gorge have become one of the East's most active rock climbing centers. The river from Hinton to Fayette Station is now designated as the New River Gorge National River, and there is a national park service visitor center on the north side of the famous New River Gorge Bridge on WV 19, featuring spectacular river and bridge views. The third weekend of October is Bridge Day, when the WV 19 bridge over the New becomes the focal point of various events including base jumping and bungee jumping for vertically-oriented adrenaline addicts. To the south of Thurmond and Fayetteville you'll find visitor centers at Grandview and Hinton. Motels, campgrounds, and other activities like horseback riding and airplane rides are readily available.

Another tale about the New River concerns the events surrounding construction of the Hawks Nest bypass tunnel near the mouth of the river. This four-mile tunnel was built for the New Kanawha Power Company, a subsidiary of Union Carbide, for the purpose of diverting the New's water through a conduit for power production. The tunnel was drilled through solid silica rock under conditions straight from the Dark Ages. The men who were "employed" on the project were practically slaves. At least 476 men were known to have died from contracting silicosis and many were quietly buried in unmarked graves. Attempts to investigate or report on this matter were suppressed for many years. What is most amazing about this heartless chapter in American river history is that these events didn't happen prior to the Civil War, but as recently as the Depression!

There are only two dams on the New River. The Corps has a huge flood control dam on the New above Hinton which doesn't have the many undesirable ecological features associated with huge drawdown reservoirs. The Bluestone Reservoir seems to be one worthwhile project that brings real benefits to the state. The second dam is below Hawks Nest and is run by Union Carbide in conjunction with the tunnel bypass.

Appalachian naturalist Maurice Brooks has written of the New River as a means of introducing plant species into the state from more southerly regions-the Catawba rhododendron, Carolina silverbell, sweet gum and Spanish oak to name a few. Many other stream-side plants attract the naturalist-paddler. Water willow fills the shallow waters near the shore in great profusion during the summer. Many other plants not common to other parts of the state may also be seen. Waterfowl are common on the upper reaches.

The New is one of the state's most significant treasures, but only the whitewater paddler can see it all.

Six Stages of the New River

Class 1-3 Gradient 8 fpm Volume 5,059 cfs Scenery remote Time 7 hrs Level NA

USGS Maps-Narrows, Petertown, Forest Hill, Pipestem
Virginia State Road Map
County Maps-Mercer, Summers

DESCRIPTION: This is a long stretch of predominantly flat water interspersed with a few ledges and occasional mild rapids in an isolated valley far from civilization. It is occasionally run as an overnighter. Every rapid in this part of the country is called a falls, but all are really low ledges. They demand respect, however, especially at high water. Wylie Falls is right at the state line, so if you plan on a fishing trip you will need two licenses. The reservoir flat water begins near the campgrounds. Do not expect to see Bull Falls unless you are a scuba diver.

SHUTTLE: Brutal and two hours one way. From Princeton take US 460 to Glen Lyn, Virginia. Put in at the bridge. Bull Falls Campgrounds, a Department of Natural Resources area, may be reached by taking the very steep road toward the river from WV 20 near Pipestem.

GAUGE: Meaningless due to extreme flow variations from an upstream power dam.

B. Bluestone Dam to Sandstone-11 Miles

Class 1-3 Gradient 10 fpm Volume 7,531 cfs Scenery settled Time 3-4 hrs Level 2-3'

USGS Maps-Hinton, Meadow Creek
County Maps-Summers, Raleigh

DESCRIPTION: This section begins immediately below the Bluestone Dam and flows through a very scenic valley. The mouth of the Greenbrier River joins the New from the right just below the dam. Gentle, easily negotiated rapids are encountered between flat stretches. About a mile after passing the bridge in Hinton a very long Class 2-3 rapid is encountered, which makes for excellent canoeing. After this there is a rather long flat stretch with intermittent riffles where the river has broadened out to almost half a mile.

SHUTTLE: Put in just below Bluestone Dam at the Corps of Engineers park located at Bellepoint on WV 3 and 12. The National Park Service has provided numerous take-outs off the River Road on river left and WV 20 on the right. These are all noted in the description; pick the ones best suited to your needs.

GAUGE: See section D.

C. Sandstone to McCreery-15 Miles

Class 1-3 Gradient 8 fpm Volume 7,531cfs Scenery remote Time 4-5 hrs Level 1.75-2.5'

USGS Maps-Beckley, Meadow Creek
County Maps-Summers, Raleigh, Fayette

DESCRIPTION: This is a very long run with several nice impressive rapids, but as with much of the New, these are interrupted by long expanses of flat water. It is a big powerful river, very beautiful, always up in the summer, and it provides excellent fishing. Numerous campsites abound and it is perfect for overnight trips. The rapids are mainly long chutes dropping gently over ledges. Although the waves are large, not much maneuvering is required.

SHUTTLE: Put in at the Lower Sandstone Falls or at Sandstone Post Office access areas describe in section B. There are several intermediate access points to the river located off of WV 41. The McCreery take-out is on WV 41 near Prince and is well marked.

GAUGE: See section D.

D. McCreery to Thurmond-15 Miles

Class 2-3 Gradient 10 fpm Volume 7,531cfs Scenery remote Time 4 hrs Level 1.75-2.5'

USGS Maps-Prince, Thurmond
County Maps-Raleigh, Fayette

DESCRIPTION: This stretch from Prince to Thurmond is characterized by fewer rapids and longer flatwater pools, but in general the individual rapids are more difficult than those in the upper river. The river is wide and powerful at 2.5 feet on the Hinton gauge, and it would be unwise for novices or open boats to proceed at this or higher levels. Each rapid is a river-wide long stretch of big waves with very little obstruction. Occasionally a ledge is encountered at one side or the other, but it is always eroded in the heaviest current. Consequently, although large stopper waves and an occasional hydraulic are encountered, very little maneuvering is required.

SHUTTLE: The McCreery put-in is located off of WV 41 near Prince. There's public access to the river at Dun Glen, opposite Thurmond, accessible via"25" from WV 19. Most paddlers take out at Stonecliff, approximately 2 miles upstream, to avoid a long stretch of flatwater. There is a paved road connecting Prince and Thurmond, but it's pretty slow going compared to the main highway. Take WV 41 from Prince towards Beckley, turn right on WV 61 to Mount Hope, turn right on WV 16 for a mile, and then turn right on Chewier 26 to Thurmond.

GAUGE: For the first three sections below the Bluestone Dam, call the dam at (304) 466-1234. Or call (304) 466-0156 to get the Hinton gauge reading, which takes into account the output of the Greenbrier. The river seldom drops below 1.75 feet and is often at this level during the summer. Approach the entire river with caution when over 2.5 feet.

E. Thurmond to Fayette Station-14 Miles

Class 3-5 Gradient 12 fpm Volume 7,531cfs Scenery remote Time 6 hrs Level -1.5-16'

USGS Maps-Thurmond, Fayetteville
County Maps-Fayette

DESCRIPTION: This is the biggest whitewater river in West Virginia. The long flat pools in the first half of this run are the price of admission, but once the gorge starts below the railroad bridge (at 8 miles) the surging waters the river provides foaming dividends to the patient paddlers. The challenge in this type of water is remaining upright while bobbing among the six- to eight-foot waves and dodging holes, stoppers and whirlpools. The entire river flows through an immense gorge with extremely rugged mountains and cliffs in view all of the way.

SHUTTLE: Access has been improved since the Park Service arrived. Fayette Station can be reached by a steep side road leaving WV 19 just south of the New River Gorge bridge. The take-out is on the river left, in the big eddy below Fayette Station Rapid. The Dun Glen Day Use Area across the river from Thurmond is a good put-in point. Follow"25" from WV 19. Whitewater paddlers wishing to shorten the run and eliminate some long, flat pools can put in at Cunard, which enters the river above Upper Railroad rapid. This is accessible via Salem Gatewood Road off of US 16 just south of Fayetteville. Follow signs to the sanitary landfill, then turn left in Cunard onto the access road. Rusty's Shuttle Service is a great help if you want to save time or have only one car. Call (304) 574-3475 for directions to his place.

GAUGE: The gauge is located at the Fayette Station bridge on river left. The Hinton reading, obtainable at (304) 529-5127, is a good estimate during low-water periods. A rough guess can be made by multiplying the Hinton reading by 3 and subtracting 6 (honest, it works). The beep gauge at Thurmond can be reached 24 hours a day at (304) 465-0493. The first two series of beeps is feet; the second and third series are tenths and hundredths, respectively. Convert to Fayette Station equivalents by multiplying the reading by 1.33, then subtracting 4.66. The Canyon Rim Visitor Center has the readings by 9:30 each morning; call (304) 574-2115.

Rough cfs conversions for the Fayette Station gauge are as follows (numbers on left are in feet) Special thanks to Dave Bassage of North American River Runners for the information below:

-2 1,072 cfs -1 1,704 cfs 0 2,440 cfs 1 3,352 cfs 2 4,436 cfs 3 5,820 cfs 4 7,550 cfs 5 9,550 cfs

6 11,400 cfs 7 14,100 cfs 8 17,200 cfs 9 20,200 cfs 10 23,800 cfs 11 26,800 cfs 12 30,000 cfs

F. Hawks Nest Dam to Gauley Bridge-6 Miles

Class 3-4 Gradient 18 fpm Volume NA Scenery remote Time 3 hrs Level 6-9'

USGS Maps-Gauley Bridge
County Maps-Fayette

DESCRIPTION: Hawks Nest Dam and the associated infamous tunnel divert the New River 5 miles to a power plant owned by Union Carbide. When there is more water than the reservoir or tunnel can handle, the excess is released back into the old riverbed. The section is referred to by paddlers as the 'Dries.' The tunnel has a voracious thirst so the river is empty until the New's flow exceeds 10,000 cfs (3.5 feet) at Hinton or 4 feet at Fayette.

The Cotton Hill Bridge Rapid consists of long, smooth slides terminating in stoppers. Below Cotton Hill the river is very rocky, the rapids closely spaced, with many two- to three-foot drops. Scouting is difficult due to the huge boulders. Some rapids in low water appear completely blocked with only small keyholes allowing the water to pass. Boulders the size of the largest ones on the Cheat or Gauley are a dime a dozen here. There is a mile-long continuous Class 3+ rapid that ends in a pool dammed behind a massive landslide. The landslide is runnable, although finding the best passage is difficult. Usually the second or third slot from the right is run. Remember that the last rapids above the railroad bridge has the full volume of the New. It is below the power station diversion tunnel.

SHUTTLE: Although some people have put in at Hawks Nest Reservoir via a steep road running out of Anstead, most boaters will find the WV 16 bridge at Cotton Hill a more convenient alternative. Take out along US 60, above Gauley Bridge.

GAUGE: The readings are for the Fayette Station gauge. The tubes fill up at 5.5 feet; 6 feet spills about 1,400 cfs providing a low water run. The section has been run with about 26,000 cfs in the Dries. It was absolutely huge!