The North Fork of the Cumberland River (locally referred to as simply the Cumberland) originates near Harlan at the confluence of the Poor Fork and Catron Creek, and flows west draining the East Kentucky counties of Knox, Bell, Harlan, Whitley, McCreary, and Pulaski.

Harlan to Williamsburg: Between Harlan and Pineville the North Fork flows over a mud and gravel bed with infrequent small shoals and rapids (Class I+) and occasional large rocks in evidence in the stream and along the banks. From a width of approximately 50 feet at its origin, the Cumberland broadens quickly to 85 to 105 feet. Running west through the steep, rugged hills of the Cumberland Plateau, the river winds through forest and coal country, under hanging wooden footbridges, and past the cabins of miners and the ever present coal tipples along the railroad tracks. As the Cumberland passes Pineville, it settles down into a mud bottom with steep banks, broadens a bit, and flows smoothly as it progresses through the deep valleys past Barbourville towards Williamsburg. To canoe the Cumberland from Harlan to Williamsburg is to become intimately acquainted with the land and the people of eastern Kentucky, their lifestyle and institutions visible and alive all along the river. Although only steep, wooded hillsides meet your searching eyes, you are never out of earshot of the rumbling coal trucks or the raspy barking of a dog defending an unseen cabin in some lonely hollow.

The Cumberland from Harlan to Pineville is frequently runnable from November through mid-May or whenever the Williamsburg gauge reads in excess of 1300 cfs. Access is reasonably good providing you are accustomed to steep banks. From Pineville to Williamsburg the river is usually runnable when the Williamsburg gauge reads in excess of 700 cfs. The section from Harlan to Williamsburg is best suited to one day runs (pick your own) rather than canoe camping.

Williamsburg to Cumberland Falls: From Williamsburg to Cumberland Falls, the river flows through the Daniel Boone National Forest. In this section the river continues to widen until in some places it is almost 200 feet across. The gradient increases here also and some mild whitewater (Class II) is encountered, with boulders in the stream and some shoals spanning the entire width of the river. This section (beyond the mouth of Jellico Creek) is extremely remote and makes a good canoe camping run at moderate water levels (500 to 1100 cfs) and a fair whitewater run at higher levels (1100 to 1900 cfs). Rock replaces the mud bottom of the upper sections, and the current runs swift and continuously, with very few pools. Boulders line the banks in increasing numbers and some flat, accessible terraces have been carved along the streamside.

In the last three miles before reaching the KY 90 bridge, exposed rock palisades become visible on the right as the Cumberland begins to enter the deep gorge that will carry it over the falls and beyond to Lake Cumberland. About one mile upstream of the falls the river curves sharply to the left and the KY 90 bridge becomes visible downstream. Move to the right of the river for the take out on the upstream side of the bridge (at the picnic ground and parking lot). Failure to move promptly to the right can have tragic consequences for the unlucky or inexperienced. One of the larger shoals (Class II) of this section is situated across the entire river just upstream of the take out. If you run it on the left and fill up or capsize, you will find yourself in the main current heading for the entrance rapids to Cumberland Falls several hundred yards downstream. If you run the shoals on the right and take water or turn over, you will be in much slower current and (except at excessive levels, i.e., 1900+) will be washed into the bank as the river narrows near the bridge, or alternately swept downstream past the bridge into a huge eddy that forms along the bank near the visitors' parking lot.

Access for this section is not plentiful but is good where it exists. The Cumberland from Williamsburg to Cumberland Falls is normally runnable from November to early June or whenever the Williamsburg gauge reads 400 cfs or more.

Cumberland River Below the Falls:This section of the North Fork of Cumberland is a Kentucky protected Wild River and is one of the most popular whitewater runs in the state. Referred to as"The Cumberland Below the Falls" by local paddlers, the river here runs through a mammoth rock gorge with boulders lining the river marking the age old headward erosion of the falls. The run should be attempted only by experienced boaters and extra flotation is recommended for open boats.

The run begins with a long carry from the visitors' parking lot at Cumberland Falls to a beach a quarter of a mile away at the bottom of the falls. Scenery is spectacular right from the put in, and most paddlers take the opportunity to paddle back upstream for a truly awe inspiring view of the falls (80 yards from the falls is as close as you can safely paddle without fighting a fantastically strong reversal current seeking to pull you into the falls).

Moving downstream, several easy Class II rapids that require no scouting are encountered before arriving at the Class III "Center Rock Rapid." This rapid can be identified by the large boulders on each side that constrict the river to a channel of approximately 20 feet, and by the degree of drop that substantially exceeds that encountered previously. The rapid consists of a 25 foot long, stairstep chute followed 50 feet later by a three foot vertical drop directly in front of a huge boulder that splits the current. This is "Center Rock." The first drop is usually run straight down the center while the strategy for the second is to angle the bow to the right and drop straight into the eddy on the right at the bottom of the drop. An alternate strategy for the second drop is to ride the pillow off the right side of Center Rock. It is recommended that this rapid be scouted.

Continuing downstream, the river lapses into a series of pools followed by rock gardens (at low to moderate water) and Class II rapids. The drops are small, but several of the rapids are quite technical. One of these, at about mile 4, has an undercut boulder situated in mid channel splitting the flow. This should be run along the far right bank. Moving on, there are more long pools and small rapids. At mile 5 there is a slanting 2 1/2 foot drop with a playful hole at the bottom that spans the entire river. This is known as "Surfing Rapid" and is a delightful place to stop for lunch.

Beyond "Surfing Rapid" the run becomes more intense. One-half mile downstream of "Surfing Rapid," the river disappears to the right around a house sized rock and immediately cuts left again crashing into a boulder on the right and down a 30-foot long chute. This fast and furious borderline Class III run serves up an exciting ride. Run right center and play the pillow off the boulder.

The next rapid, a quarter mile distant, is a turning four foot drop known as "Screaming Right Hand Rapid." At low to moderate water levels the main flow drops over a 1-1/2 foot ledge and splashes almost immediately on a rock that diverts the current sharply to the right over a three foot slanted drop. The most popular strategy here is to cut right after the first ledge using the pillow to turn the boat. At higher water levels the river overflows the obstructing rock and a four foot vertical drop and a mean hydraulic is created completely across the river. Scouting is definitely required in this situation.

The next large rapid, known as "Stair Steps," is a long, delightful, borderline Class III stretch that looks much worse than it is. It is easily recognized by the large hole at the top with a sharkfin shaped rock just below it. Decked boaters may want to punch the hole. For open boaters the best route is to run right of the hole and then hug the right bank all the way to the bottom. Scout on the right.

The last major rapid is appropriately named "Last Drop." In this Class III area, the current winds to the right along the upstream side of a large boulder and then suddenly cuts left dropping vertically three feet. Next the current is split by a building-sized boulder in the middle of the river. Run to the right at the top, staying to the inside of the turn and away from the upstream face of the boulder. Cut hard left, taking the vertical drop as close to the boulder as possible. Go around the building sized boulder that splits the current on the far right. At high water this rapid (like several others) changes drastically forming a super mean hole at the top. Scout (or portage) to the right.

"Last Drop" marks the end of the whitewater section of the Cumberland (although several small shoals are encountered farther downstream due to the low level of the lake pool). From here it is a scenic 3 1/2 mile paddle through the lake to the take out at the mouth of the Laurel River. Access is excellent at the take out.

Dangers other than those already described include logs that occasionally become trapped in the more narrow chutes, and strong headwinds while paddling off the lake. Off the river dangers include the possible vandalizing of vehicles (especially vans) left at the take out end of the shuttle.

The Cumberland River below the falls is the only whitewater river in Kentucky that is normally runnable all year.