Class 3
Moderate Snow (Seasonal)
From Summit Lake
Trailhead: 2.0 miles, 1,420 feetEvans has a sweeping, mile-wide north face that extends west below the summit. The cliffs below the summit are the most serious, and difficulties moderate to the west. Although much of the face is broken, there are many technical treasures hidden here. Expert enthusiasts ski and snowboard the many available couloirs. The easiest route, described here, is a sweeping snowfield near the center of the face. This is a route for May or June. By August the upper part of this slope is odious rubble.
Climb southwest from the east end of Summit Lake into the Summit Lake Bowl, below the face. From a bench at 13,300 feet, the route is directly above you to the south. Ascend the steepening and narrowing snowfield to Evans' west ridge. The steepness reaches 40 degrees and the views halfway up the slope are distinctly alpine. The snow does not always reach the ridge. Depending on the year, you may have to steer around exposed rocks or scramble up talus as you approach the ridge. The route reaches Evans' west ridge in the 14,140-foot saddle midway between Point 14,256 and Evans' summit. Hike east along the west ridge for 0.2 mile to the tippy top.
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