After such personal comfort, expectations were kept in check when we arrived at our "tented camp" in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, adjacent to the Krueger National Park. But another delightful surprise was the Savanna Tented Safari Lodge, owned and operated by a government-sanctioned ecotourism group which trains park rangers and fosters programs to help preserve the wild life in its natural habitat.

Back-to-back — two elephants eating
brush in Sabi Sand Game Reserve.

The Lodge had only four tents, guaranteeing a maximum of eight people on safari at any time. Set on a permanent base with stucco walls, working windows and A/C, the overhead was canvassed like a real tent. Inside were embroidered linens, a marbled bathroom with sunken bath, a glass walled shower, double sinks and separate toilet. So much for roughing it in the Bush!

	Helpful Tips for Your African Adventure Take it easy. The flight to South Africa can take 10-20 hours — stop over en route. Pack lightly. Luggage space is very limited on small internal planes to and from the parks. Some lodges can provide outerwear; ask your travel agent for a list of essentials. Dress in neutral colors and layer cottons for warmth in the cool nights. Be prepared to do some handwash by carrying biodegradable soap powder. Shoot pictures. Take more than one camera and extra film! Disposable panoramic cameras are good for younger children. Health. Inquire 6-8 weeks in advance about necessary immunizations. Call the CDC Hotline at (404) 332-4559, and consult with your pediatrician. Carry in hand luggage your own First Aid kit with the usual essentials, including insect repellent and sun screens made specially for children. Most items can be bought locally, but are expensive. Collect. Bring zip-loc bags and small plastic containers to store collectibles such as found bugs, leaves, dried flowers, feathers, and to preserve stamps, ticket stubs, etc. Use a Tour operator: Inquire about tour operators' qualifications, and the experience of lodge managers, safari leaders and local guides in working with children. Their ability to plan suitable days and help children learn from this unique exposure to wildlife is vital to the success of your trip.

To see wild animals up close and personal, Savanna is a great place to start, but there are safety issues to consider. The tents are not fenced in and animals wander around the campsite at will. Between sunset and sunrise even adults are escorted to and from their tents by a ranger. That is why Savanna welcomes children over 12 years, but will take younger children only when all four tents are reserved by the same family group.

It was still dark as we gulped down hot coffee following a 5 a.m. wake-up call, before boarding the specially equipped Land Rover for our first game-viewing expedition. Duncan, our driver, guide, head ranger and camp manager all in one, worked as a team with Ephraim, his"spotter" who sat perched over the left front wheel.

Ephraim looked, listened and pointed; he rarely spoke. He was the eyes and ears of the expedition, and read animal tracks, interpreted droppings, noticed every tell-tale movement in the bush, and spotted birds and animals we would never otherwise have seen. He saw a family of elephants, a pride of lions with tiny cubs, a herd of Cape buffalo, white rhinos and countless impala.

The locals call impala "the McDonalds of South Africa — there's one on every corner and everybody eats them." They are graceful creatures and, fortunately, prolific breeders for they are low on the food chain in lion country.

As the sun rose, the vast silent plain looked as it must have done for thousands of years and we realized that this was the animal's home. We are the visitors to their land. Duncan quietly told us that the elephant suckling her youngster not 20 yards away, sees our vehicle only in silhouette. Our scent was masked by the vehicle, he said, and as long as it stayed that way, we would be fine.

Exhilarated, we returned to camp at about 9 a.m. for a full English-style breakfast. After breakfast, Ephraim escorted some of us in the bush for a walk. His encyclopedic knowledge of animals, birds and the environment quickly became apparent as he quoted flowers, trees and grasses and their many different uses, some medicinal, some decorative and some part of local life and folklore. We moved warily through the bush, concerned that Ephraim carried only a metal spear. He eased our concerns demonstrating his skill with it by using a distant tree stump as his target. "I've never lost a tourist," he said. We were impressed.

Lunch in the shade of a cooling thatch was followed by a cat-nap for those not too busy filling in their "Safari Sightings" list. Before we knew it we were up and ready for the afternoon drive to a different part of the reserve. We saw baboons, more lions — not the same ones, according to the rangers who recognize them.

As darkness fell upon us, nightjars, hyaenas, ring-tailed bucks and impala became even more alert than before — it was getting dark afterall and that means feeding time for the predators.

Back at camp by 9 p.m., we joined the group around a log fire for drinks and discussion of the day's sightings. We were joined at the dinner table by Duncan and his assistant manager, wife Louise who is a working mother of 1-year-old Megan, who is being raised here. Isak Dinesen would surely approve!

It was a long day but we were looking forward to our 5 a.m. call, to see more wildlife. On our pillow a handwritten note read, "We hope your visit with us was very special. When all the animals are gone, man will die of loneliness."

We treasure it.

John Manton, Director of FTF Inc, avid adventurer and grandfather, resides with his wife Ruth in New York City.