The Elwha River from Dodger Point Bridge. |
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Warm breezes rise from the canyon below and gently rock the footbridge
under my feet. Although it is mid-September and the smell of decaying
leaves is in the air, T-shirts and shorts are comfortable attire and I am
reminded that summer is only reluctantly giving in to fall in the Olympic
Mountains of Washington State.
Upstream, the Elwha River tosses, turns
and gushes, angry at being confined to the narrow canyon channel.
Carpets of moss, sword ferns and salal line the forest floors.
Downstream, ancient Douglas-fir and Western red cedar trees lie like
fallen soldiers on the bank. Scattered boulders and small islands
disturb the river's flow while spreading its channel wide.
I have come to this valley for two reasons: to fish for rainbows in the river below and to hunt chanterelles and other species of fungus in the forests above me. Armed with knife and basket, and rod and reel, I relish this fall ritual, and on most occasions, enjoy some gastronomic rewards as
well.
Inherent in the pursuit of trout from mountain rivers, and mushrooms from
forest floors is a gentle but deep satisfaction in the hunt itself. The
Elwha river valley provides a perfect backdrop for the experience. Lying
only a score of miles east of the Peninsula's rainforests, where annual
rainfall can exceed 200 inches, the valley is partially protected from
the deluge by the mountains themselves. By September the river has begun
to relax and the cool nights and occasional rainfall dampen the forest
floor. The result is a comfortable outdoor environment and ideal
conditions for fishing and hunting mushrooms.
Trout Fishing
The fall is the best time to fish the Elwha for several reasons. The
river has settled and holes and pockets can be fished easily with wet or
dry flies. By mid-September, the water is translucent, and free of the
glacial silt that limits visibility throughout the spring and summer.
This year, the color is excellent, although a wet winter, spring and
summer has left the river with greater flows than usual. Still, there
are many fishable spots, and fat, 11-to- 14-inch trout are being taken
routinely.
Between Rica Canyon and the Humes homestead. |
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The trail to Humes Ranch, is an easy 45-minute walk. If you want
opportunities to fish along the way and don't mind a slightly longer
walk, take the marked trail down to Rica Canyon about half-mile from the
trailhead. Descend through the burn using the switchbacks until you
reach the river. This lower, parallel trail leads between Rica Canyon
and the old Humes homestead. There are numerous locations to fish and camp on
this lower trail. However, the fishing pressure is great here, due to
its proximity to the trailhead, and most who know the river well fish at
or above Humes Ranch.
Adjacent to the Humes homestead is an island with a massive logjam
on the upstream bank. An ideal place to fish is on the far bank of the
island. To get there, carefully maneuver yourself over the logjam, walk
to the far bank and then back downstream.
On this warm September day, while the small alders across the river waved gently to me, I watched a mid-day mayfly hatch near the bank. Others who have fished this spot tell me that this mid-day hatch is common, although most reserve the dry fly (try an Irresistible pattern) for late afternoon and evening. Golden stoneflies are also common and this year the Yellow Stimulator is a hot pattern - both fly shops I stopped at had sold out of these flies. Stonefly nymph imitators (try a Goldbead Hare's Ear) are used with success, especially earlier in the day. The Elk-hair Caddis and salmon
fly nymph imitators are also effective.
There is plenty of water here to be fished. In the half-mile between the
island at Humes Ranch and upstream to the Dodger Point Bridge, the river
is wide, and the banks are free of brush. You can cross the river (no
small adventure this year because of the high water) and fish the
opposite bank down to the island with success.
Getting There
The Elwha River trailhead is located about 12 miles from Port Angeles,
Washington in the Olympic National Park. To get there, drive about seven
miles west on Highway 101. Turn left on the Olympic Hot Springs Road and
this once-upon-a-time salmon river comes into view. Before 1913, the year
the Elwha Dam began operation, impressive runs of coho, pink, sockeye and
chum salmon, and cutthroat, char and Dolly Varden trout all earned at
least part of their living in the Elwha watershed. Today, the upper
river supports only resident rainbow trout and Dolly Varden for the
angler willing to limit their gear to a single barbless hook and no bait.
Some say that the rainbow trout are descendents of steelhead that were
imprisoned by the dam. Whatever their genetic ancestry, however, 14-inch
fish are common, and fish up to 18 inches are taken by some.
Follow the road past the park entrance. A quick stop at the Backcountry
Information Center for the latest details on bear and cougar warnings,
campsite closures and trail conditions is worth the short delay. When
planning an overnight trip, obtain a backcountry permit here. Just
beyond the information center is the junction with Whiskey Bend Road.
Five miles of narrow, steep twists and turns lead you far above the
river. Driving slowly is a necessity, but has its rewards. The sights,
smells and sounds as you progress up the incline prepare you for the
hike. The driver who can keep one eye on the road and one on the forest
may find an occasional cluster of oyster mushrooms growing from the
trunks of old alder lying in or near a streambed. One year I found a
giant sulfur shelf fungus, sometimes called chicken-of-the-woods,
protruding from a dead tree along this drive. When the road ends, abandon
your vehicle, gather your tools, and put your foot to the Earth.
The trail begins over relatively flat terrain, starting high above Rica
Canyon. As you progress, traces of burns, large stands of old-growth,
early homestead cabins, and picturesque riverside campsites can be found,
along with grouse, quail, jays, and if you are lucky, bears and cougars.
A common destination for day hikers is the Humes Ranch, an old homestead
site located 2.3 miles from the trailhead. A cabin still remains there. |
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