Although long and rigorous, the Choro trek, stretching from Bolivia's mountain peaks to the steaming Yungas, allows hikers to view stone houses in the Altiplano, crystalline rivers nestled in lush, green valleys, monkeys swinging from one tree to another and eagles soaring above forest covered mountains. For the three-day journey, most carry both winter and summer clothing, medical supplies and a good camera not only to capture breathtaking sites, but also to prove to friends and relatives that you survived the jarring descents and exhausting climbs.

Most people advise preparing a week in advance your food, camping gear and especially your feet and knees before hiking to Los Yungas via the Choro trek. And although the advice should be well heeded, don't let the moans and groans about the length and difficulty of the journey talk you out of going.

The Choro trek, Bolivia's premiere hike, climbs to the Chucura pass at 4,650 meters above sea level and descends to the village of Chairo in Los Yungas at 1.400m. Along the way, the hike offers a rare opportunity to absorb Bolivia's vast differences in climate and culture in just three days.

Day One

To begin, a large fruit truck from Villa Fatima will leave you at the cumbre which is the highest point on the La Paz - Coroico Highway. When you see the statue of Christ, that's your signal to get off the truck and begin your walk with the traditional Bolivian challa - offering the statue a silent prayer and a gift such as flowers or alcohol.

Like the slow but steady beat of a drum, rhythmic is the climb to the peak, crushing shiny black stones as you methodically place one foot in front of the other. The time to enjoy the hazy, desolate landscape is when you've reached the mountain top and have encountered the trail for your descent - a path built hundreds of years ago by Incas who, with their families and their llamas, used it to transport food and other goods from one part of Bolivia to another.

Although the descent along colored stones stings the toes and rattles the knees, fresh mountain air and the view of rushing rivers lift the spirits and give you energy to continue as do the occasional chats with campesinos who almost always ask for either a piece of candy or a bit of change. The small village of Chucura 3,900 meters above sea a level is easily recognizable by the stone houses with straw roofs. In the rainy season from November to April you may find the air a bit chilling and the ground in Chucura a bit too wet for camping: the option of spending the night in the school there for l.5bs may become more inviting. Whatever your decision, the river is close by for drink and for cooking. Some recommend taking water purification tablets as human and animal life does exist throughout the length of the trail and contamination of rivers and streams can occur.

Day Two

As the journey continues into the second day, you'll most likely shed jackets sweaters and mittens as rain and biting cold give way to sun and steam. Upon nearing the jungle-choked Yungas, vegetation becomes greener, thicker and more inviting, and the sites and sounds of monkeys clinging to and swinging from trees increase. Brightly colored snakes and butterflies will most likely also accompany you on the journey.

By this time. after a day of heat and humidify, bathing will feel a necessity and the abundant waterfalls and crystal streams offer the perfect opportunity. The water may feel icy at first, but once acclimated to the temperature you'll surely find it refreshing.

Most choose to camp in the village of Choro on the second night thus beginning the third day's journey by crossing the sturdy, suspended wooden bridge over the river and then beginning a long, arduous trek to the mountain top. While the climb may be cardio-vascularly challenging, it is a welcome change from the two-day descent which, by this time, has probably left your feel full of blisters and your legs somewhat resembling jello.

Day Three

From here on, the hike simply winds through mountains. consisting of climbing to peaks and then descending into valleys, only to prepare yourself for yet another climb. At two different locations, hikers can purchase oranges, beer, cokes and other items from peasants perched in small wooden houses along the path. Also don't be alarmed when, upon passing what appears to be a rustic resort surprisingly nestled along the trail a Japanese man comes running up behind you, pen in one hand, travel book in the other and asks you your name and where you're from.

From that point, the walk is a refreshing seven kilometers of basically plains with a slight descent into the town of Chairo. Be sure to take time to enjoy the scenery so as not to miss eagles soaring above mountain tops in Chairo. If you're not in the mood to cook and set up camp you can always pay about six bs for a good meal and a place to stay with one of the peasant families in the village.

Returning to La Paz consists of catching a fruit truck to Yolosa early next morning, and from there, taking the first available transportation transportation that passes by whether it be minibus or a truck hauling platanos oranges or cattle.

Special thanks to the Bolivian Times, Pasaje jauregui 2248 (Sopocahi), Cassila No. 1696, La Paz, Bolivia, for providing this material.