The Nuts and Bolts
of Train Travel
By GORP Travel Expert Rob Sangster
"There are two kinds of fool," says a Japanese proverb."He who has never
climbed Mt. Fuji-and he who has climbed it more than once."
Anyone who buys a third-class "hard seat" ticket on a train more than once
would fit easily into that second category. In most countries, train travel
is so inexpensive it's foolish to buy the cheapest ticket available. Pay a
little more and give yourself a treat.
Family on platform waiting for the (always late) train in New Delhi, India |
There are a couple of other important things you should know about train
travel abroad. First, it's a lot more fun than riding trains at home. Second,
you need to learn the rules or you're likely to be left standing in the
station as the train pulls out. With that in mind, let's review some of the
nuts and bolts of train travel around the world.
To buy a ticket in most countries overseas you'll probably have to go to the
train station — and that means standing in line. Before long, you may notice
folks joining the line ahead of you. Instead of complaining, bail out
yourself and move to the front of the line where it resembles a rugby scrum.
Otherwise, you may spend the afternoon waiting in a line that never moves
forward.
When you reach the ticket agent's window, make sure you know the name of
your destination as it's spelled in the local language. If tempted to accept
a seat in a car where smoking is permitted, don't underestimate the impact of
clouds of unfiltered smoke on your lungs. If you share a language with the
ticket clerk, always ask which side you should sit on for the best view of
the most spectacular scenery.
If you want a berth for an overnight trip, it will cost extra. How much
depends on whether the berth is lengthwise along the aisle, in a shared
compartment, or in a private compartment. Be sure to ask what you're getting.
In Europe, one form of shared compartment is called a couchette. For
about $20 extra, you get a bunk in a co-ed dormitory compartment for six
people. A private compartment usually has two beds and costs an extra $40 to
$100. Of course, when you sleep on the train you save what you would have
spent on a hotel room.
Before you leave the agent's window, confirm that the ticket handed to
you is what you asked for, then count your change, and, oh yes, be sure the
guy behind you isn't picking your pocket. Be nice to the clerk. Maybe as a
result of your courtesy, he'll go out of his way to help the traveler
following in your wake.
By the way, if you're expected to confirm your reservation but don't do so,
someone else's seat will be in yours.
Sounds simple so far, right? Well, here's another scenario. It's a
blazing hot day in India so you ask for a berth in an air-conditioned
compartment. The ticket agent says,"Finished," which roughly translates to:
"You must be crazy; air conditioned compartments were sold out weeks ago."
You decide to settle for a compartment with a fan. Again, "Finished." Okay,
you sigh, I'll just sit up and sweat it out, only to be told that those
seats, too, are "Finished."
A knowledgeable traveler isn't even close to giving up. That's because a
block of tickets called the "tourist quota" has been set-aside with you in
mind. Without it, in countries where the train is a common means of
transportation, you might never get a ticket if you tried to buy it only a
day or two ahead of departure. In many train stations, you'll find "tourist
quota" tickets at a place called, reasonably enough, the "foreigner's window."
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