Most parts of Italy have been inhabited since the Stone Age, and even in the most remote places you will see traces of human activity. Etruscans, Phoenicians, Romans, Francs, Arabs, and Spaniards have all left their mark here. The land has been shaped by the work of men: forests have been cut, marshes have been dried, mountain slopes have been cut into terraced fields for vineyards and olive trees. What is left unchanged of the original wilderness are only the highest mountains, unfit for human dwelling; the low, sandy coasts — infested with pirates until 150 years ago; and the thick forests that were once game preserves for the kings.

Though Italy has been heavily affected by urbanization and industrialization, traveling a short distance from town to the country can feel like a step back in time. You'll be amazed that when you leave noisy, overcrowded towns you find yourself in a totally different environment; the landscape, the food, and the architecture change dramatically if you travel just a short distance.

Italy's national parks are well cared for, with well-marked paths and refuges with food and accommodations at the end of each day's walk. Guides in the parks can give you maps and information.

Valerio Diotto has trekked the Himalayas, herded sheep in southern France, walked the Inca Trail, traveled through Afghanistan, and dealt gems in Brazil. Home is Genoa, Italy, where he lives with his wife and daughter and works in his sister's ceramics studio.