If you sit quietly, nature comes out to greet you.
Clark nutcrackers and slate-colored nuthatches flit among Sierracedars. A cloud of yellow butterflies drifts past a clump of brilliant redsnow plant. The dainty hoofprints of white-tail deer crisscross the trailsurface. A storm-felled white fir displays the scratchmarks of a brown beardigging for his favorite delicacy--a pawful of ants.The Tahoe Rim Trail is an exquisitely beautiful route that wandersthrough fragrant pines more than 3,000 feet above the sapphire shimmer ofLake Tahoe, the nation's largest and deepest alpine lake.

Location: Along the California/Nevada border 200 miles east of San Francisco.
Distance: 150 mile route when completed in 1999.
Features: Pine and fir forest, spectacular views of Lake Tahoe.
Uses: Hiking, horseback riding, cross-country skiing.

Working a Trail Crew

The Tahoe Rim Trail Project is a national volunteer effort to plan,build and maintain an environmentally conforming trail for hikers,horseback riders and cross-country skiers around the crests that form theLake Tahoe Basin. Motorized vehicles aren't allowed. The first half, onLake Tahoe's South Shore, is open for use. When the North Shore trail iscompleted sometime in 1999, the two segments will form a complete 150-mileloop along the ridgeline of the Lake Tahoe Basin, opening up spectacularvirgin back country accessible from multiple trailheads along the route.

My interest in the trail was piqued when a friend encouraged me tovolunteer."You'll love it," he said. "You'll be outdoors all day, andyou'll see the best that nature has to offer."

I hooked up with the crew leader and a handful of other volunteers,all packing lunches and water, to begin an hour's hike into territory thatbore no traces of civilization. The pure crisp September air at 6,000-plusfeet was as heady as any bottled fragrance. I realized that as a volunteerI was among the first to experience the trail's rugged beauty.

Before building begins, trail segments are established byvolunteers who walk an area and flag the most accessible route. Then,members of the Trails Committee along with a skier, hiker, horseman,archeologist, anthropologist and botanist walk it. Each evaluates the routefrom his particular perspective.

The botanist may advise an alternate route to avoid an area ofsensitive plants. The archaeologist is concerned with Indian ruins. Even adump is protected until experts can determine whether it contains somethingof value. Volunteers have come across arrowheads and hunting blinds by theWashoe Indians hundreds of years ago.

We were handed hard hats and safety goggles, and directed to theyellow-flagged route. During the day I trimmed low-hanging branches with asmall hand saw while others grubbed out manzanita and tobacco brush with acombination axe and hoe called a McLeod. The idea was to form a safe, leveltrail bed that held no hidden hazards, while leaving a minimal mark onnature.

By four p.m. it seemed we hadn't made much progress. I looked backat about 500 feet of brush-free newly-leveled earth. "You've done great!"said the crew leader. "When it's all boulders and brush like this the workgoes very slowly. And anyway, we measure progress by how good you feel atthe end of the day."

Dayhiking Spooner South to Kingsbury Grade

A bulletin board marks the Spooner Summit trailhead, about a20-minute drive from either South Shore or Incline Village, the two closestplaces to stay. There are no services, springs or streams on this stretch,so you must bring your own water. Restrooms and porta-potties are at thetrailhead.

I started out on the soft, sandy trail and immediately blessed theplanners who had decreed a 10 percent maximum grade, except for shortstretches. At an elevation of 7,200 feet it isn't just the view that takesyour breath away.

Within fifteen minutes, around a steep switchback, Spooner Lakesprang into view far below. I leaned against a Jeffrey pine, admiring theview, inhaling the characteristic vanilla smell given off from its bark. Igently scratched the bark to make the aroma more intense. I'd learnedduring my trail-building trip that these"Gentle Jeffreys" can bedistinguished from the similar "Prickly Ponderosas" because their pinecones have no sharp stickers, while the ponderosas cones can hurtfullyspear a tender palm.

I soon spotted a spur trail off to the left, which led to a littleknoll and another panoramic view of Spooner Lake. A troupe of half a dozenBrownies and their leader, chattering as they pulled fruit and trail mixfrom their backpacks, welcomed me to the scenic spot. This was their midwaypoint, they explained, after which they'd return along the route I'd justcovered. As I returned to the main trail, following light blue triangularmarkers, the sun ducked under a collection of passing cumulus. I pulled awindbreaker from my backpack, grateful for the pre-hike advice to beprepared for changeable weather.

Just about an hour into the hike, signs directed me to a 500-foottrail that I followed to a granite outcropping and a spectacular 360-degreeview of Lake Tahoe and Carson Valley. As I sat on sun-warmed rocks andswigged my Evian I spotted the white paddle-wheeler Tahoe Queen far belowon the lake. On the other side, ribbons of roads and highways disappearedon the horizon in the direction of Carson City, Nevada.

After the initial switchback, the trail had leveled outconsiderably. I became aware of waxy white yarrow and bright orangeCalifornia poppies flourishing among the red-barked manzanitas and tobaccobrush. Squirrels darted and chattered in the branches above me. The sunreturned, I shed my windbreaker and slathered some Number 15 on my nose andcheeks.

Not quite five miles in I came to an open slope with a spectacularview of Lake Tahoe and the mouth of Emerald Bay spread spectacularly below.I slowed my pace, savoring the sight, gradually coming to a flat, woodedarea lower down on the ridge. It was apparent that trail-builders had doneserious rockwork here to establish a level tread. The mellifluous wind inthe trees emphasized the absence of civilization's strident sounds.Although several four-wheel drive roads had crossed the trail, I hadn'theard an engine's hum or human voice since I'd met the Brownie troop. Ifelt completely, contentedly alone.

The last few trail miles wound through wooded areas dotted withopen spaces. Scenic rest spots were frequent. Near the top of KingsburyGrade, I followed North Benjamin Drive which became Andria Drive, whichmarks the trail's south access at Kingsbury North Trailhead. A smallparking area accommodates just a few cars.

Although it's a jolt to return to tarmac and tourists, it's alsocomforting to know that the U.S. Forest Service and Nevada Division ofState Parks will protect the trail. Its essence, solitude and beauty, willbe there when I return.

Volunteering and Practicalities

Trail construction goes on from mid-May until early October. Nospecial skills are required. Volunteers range from enthusiastic teens togray-haired grandparents. The common denominators, a love of the outdoorsand wanting to contribute something to the environment, help friendshipsform quickly. For information on volunteering call (702) 588-0686, or fax(702) 588-8737.

How To Get There:

Lake Tahoe straddles the California/Nevada border 198miles east of San Francisco. Twelve airlines serve Reno, where you can renta car or catch one of the Tahoe Casino Express's 14 daily trips to SouthShore. The Spooner Summit South access is off Highway 50 at the rest areaone mile east of Highway 50/28 junction.

When To Go:

Portions of the trail are open the year around, but hiking isbest from May to October. Summer temperatures average in the 70s.

Precautions:

Come prepared with water, sun screen and layered clothing forchangeable weather. Lake Tahoe is at an altitude of 6,300, with trails ashigh as 9,400 feet. Try to arrive a day early and drink lots of liquids tohelp combat headaches and sleepiness that altitude may cause.

Where To Walk:

Brochures with trail information are available at trailheadbulletin boards and from the trail office at (702) 588- 0686. More thaneight well-marked segments are accessible from multiple trailheads.

Where To Stay:

Historic among-the-pines Richardson's Resort (800) 544-1801,has log cabins on the lake. For the upscale casino resort experience tryHarrah's Casino Hotel (800) 648-3773. Lakeside Inn and Casino (800)624-7980 is minutes from the trail.

Where To Eat:

The Beacon (916) 541-0630 offers outdoor dining on a lakefront deck. Fish is the specialtyat Fresh Catch (916) 541- 5683 at Tahoe Keys. The Mandarin Garden (916)544-8885 has multi- course Chinese meals.

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Photos by Bill Baker
Award-winning travel writer Judy Wade has written for USAir and LA Times Syndicate. She and husband/photographer Bill Baker pack and unpack in Phoenix