Putting packs to the test
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The mountaineer and the backpacker would seem to have plenty in common, and therefore you'd think the same backpack would serve both just fine. True, both mountaineers and backpackers must move from Point A to Point B with personal belongings in tow, but that's where their similarities end and where their differing needs in equipment begin.
In general, a mountaineer doesn't travel as far as a backpacker. Progression is measured in vertical feet gained rather than linear miles walked. A lengthy approach hike might total eight miles, after which the mountaineer dumps the contents of his pack to establish base camp. From that point on, the mountaineer's"alpine" pack will tote a pared-down load of essential gear, food, and water required for the summit push.
In an alpine pack, lightness and nimbleness take precedence over padded comfort, because in the mountains speed is safety: speed to get off a ridgeline when a thunderstorm rears up, speed to beat a hasty retreat in a whiteout. You can learn to read the weather, but Mother Nature remains unpredictable and the facts on packs remain the same: the heavier the pack and bigger the load, the slower you climb.
Ascending slopes angled forty-five degrees or higher, where a false move can lead to big trouble, climbers need a pack that wrestles a load of gear so it's close to the back and balanced. Also, upwardly mobile climbers need a pack that can be hauled by rope when the terrain goes vertical, so abrasion resistance and a minimum of loops and straps that might snag are vital qualities. At the same time, an alpine pack should come with exterior attachment points to safely carry an ice axe, crampons, skis, wands, and rope.
Think of an alpine pack as a sports car — sleek, not much cargo room, and built for speed. Hauling the groceries and kids is not its forte. Where backpackers go wrong is in being seduced by an alpine pack's daisy chains, ice-axe loops, and cool climber's aura. Problem is, ten miles into a week-long trek they discover the painful truth that minimally padded alpine packs aren't designed for life in the slow lane.
It's in the interest of mountaineers and backpackers to know the differences in packs designed for their respective trades, so that they avoid buying more pack than they need, or less.
GORP had the interests of mountaineers and climbers in mind when our test crew matched the leading models of alpine packs to find the champion load hauler. Packs had to cost under $300, weigh less than six pounds, and have a capacity of 4,0005,000 cubic inches. In all, six packs matched the criteria.
The packs were tested in Washington's North Cascades, Utah's Canyonlands, Oregon's Smith Rock, and British Columbia's Squamish. From midwinter to midsummer, packs were punished on five-day trail cruises, desperate bushwhacks, ski and snowboard trips, steep couloirs, and near-vertical rock.
Packs were rated on a scale of 1 (poor) to 5 (excellent). To learn which are sleek, and which are sloppy, read on.
Packs for Climbers, by Climbers
Look for mountaineer-friendly details like oversize zipper tabs that are easy to grab while wearing mittens, drain holes in wand pockets, ski slots big enough for wide backcountry boards, and gear loops and daisy chains that are bar-tacked solidly to the pack body. |
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from Away.com
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