These grapefruit-size stoves are lightweight, easy to use, and generally very dependable. Not only are these stoves small and clean burning, but the pressurized cartridges can be detached after use and then reattached if they are not empty. Most cartridges are designed to be discarded when empty, although there are several on the market that can be crushed and recycled. The vast majority of U.S.-produced canisters have resealing valves that close up when the cartridge is not in use. The resealable cartridges can then be stored or carried in your pack without fear of leaking and then used later. They also don't require priming.

Primus HPS

Blended fuel cartridges can still flare up if the liquid gas is allowed to blend with the vaporized gas that is being burned. To prevent this problem, don't shake the stove before lighting it, and allow it to sit for several minutes after use. Some European manufacturers produce cartridges that must be punctured to release fuel (such as the Gaz Bleuet); these don't reseal. Puncture cartridges stay on the burner until empty. If you try to pack the stove and cartridge in situ and the fuel knob accidentally gets turned on while in transport, gas may leak and explode when you light up. These canisters are fine if you are planning to use an entire canister once your stove is set up but are inconvenient, wasteful, and potentially dangerous if you are cooking and then packing up and moving camp.

Cartridge stoves generally are sold as a burner that screws directly onto the top of the cartridge, or as one that is connected by a tube to the canister. Fewer parts mean fewer avenues of potential equipment failure, so if your stove is your lifeline to survival, stick to one that has fewer parts. Canisters that attach directly to the burner are also, as a rule, lighter than those with tubes and gas lines. Many cartridge stoves have self-cleaning flow jets, which make them almost maintenance free.

Canisters come in all shapes and sizes, but all contain some type of pressurized fuel that is released as burnable gas. These compact stoves usually run on butane or propane. Because the compressed gas in the canisters needs to expand to burn, cold weather can hinder stove performance. Pure butane doesn't vaporize in below-freezing conditions. Prepackaged butane/propane mixtures perform better, but as a rule, compressed gas is not as efficient for cold temperatures as is white gas. However, the size and weight of the stove may dictate your choice. If you are dependent on a canister stove for extremely cold conditions, buy a heat exchanger (generally a copper tube that heats up the gas) from the manufacturer. If you want a cold weather stove, make sure your model comes with a heat exchanger before you buy. If temperatures drop and you don't have a heat exchanger, carry the cartridge in your jacket before use, since your body temperature will warm it to performance levels. Another trick is to keep a spare cartridge in a warm place while cooking. If the one in use gets cold and stops working, just switch cartridges and continue with the spare. (This only works with resealable canisters.)

Keep in mind that altitude generally won't interfere with a stove's performance, unless temperatures plummet to well below freezing. Low air pressure allows gas to expand more quickly, thus increasing the performance (and heat) of your stove. Cartridge stoves are notorious for being fickle in windy conditions. In breezy conditions, use a windscreen, or camp in a sheltered area.

The following are types of fuel that are used in compressed gas cartridges:

Butane cartridges. Straight butane won't burn as hot as other cartridge fuels, hence the practice of blending it with propane. While they work well in mild weather, they are generally undependable below 40 degrees.

Isobutane. This fuel burns consistently, although expect a slower boil time than with butane-propane combinations. Like straight butane, isobutane doesn't burn consistently at temperatures below 40 degrees.