Expeditionary Forces
Case Study #3: Sue Nott
By Ted Stedman
Sue Nott in action
Photo © Cameron Lawson
Rock- and ice-queen extraordinaire, Sue Nott is fast becoming a legend, and at just 34 years old, she still has plenty time to cement her reputation as one of America's foremost mixed-climbing phenoms. Much of her critical acclaim stems from her performances on extremely technical, direct-line approaches that few would attempt. In 1999 she nearly paid the ultimate price in a devastating climbing accident in Colorado when a huge column of ice crushed her, causing massive abdominal injuries. But she was back at it only two months later, and in four years since has knocked off an incredible number of mixed climbing routes and first ascents throughout the world.
The Nott Résumé
1989: Began ice-climbing in hometown of Vail, Colorado
1990: Topped The Fang (WI +6), a classic Vail ice route
Completed classic ice routes Acid Howl (1993), The Replicant (1994) , and La Pomme d'Or in British Columbia (1996/2002)
1999: Severely injured in ice fall from Seventh Tentacle, Vail
2000: Five months after severe injury, completed one new A2/A4 pitch route and attempted another on Fitzroy, Patagonia
Spent several winters ice climbing in Chamonix, France
2001: Completed alpine-style summit of the west ridge of Shivling ("India's Matterhorn"), in the Garhwal Himalaya
2002: Summit of the North Face of Les Droites, via a 1,000-meter vertical face that's among the longest, hardest mixed climbs in the Alps
2003: First American women to climb the Eiger's North Face and the Croz Spur on the Alps' Grand Jorasses in winter
2003: Established new route to the north buttress of Kalanka in India's Garhwal Himalayas
Numerous top-five finishes in Colorado's Ouray Ice Festival
Move on to
Case Study #3: The Nott Gear Portfolio
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