Photo © Ed Viesturs

He's called the Human Lung and Mr. O2, references to his apparent superhuman ability to excel in the thin-air Death Zone, a feat even more profound since he climbs without supplemental oxygen. Certainly, Ed Viesturs' purist approach and light-and-fast alpine technique have made him one of America's preeminent high-altitude climbers. Confident but without the swagger of other celebrated alpinists, Viesturs is closing in on his goal to summit all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks without the use of bottled oxygen. In spring 2004, he will make a third attempt on Nepal's Annapurna (26,504 feet), the last and perhaps most dangerous on his list. Whether or not he achieves his goal is secondary. As Viesturs puts it, "A successful climb is one that you return from."

Viesturs on Nepal's Manaslu
Photo © Ed Viesturs

The Viesturs Résumé