 The Going Will Be Good
Part II
A GORP Visionary Adventure by Paul Theroux

Fancy that! Granny in a spaceship
© Jay Kinney & Paul Mavrides |
Of course, because of globalization, some believe that travelers will face a much more homogenized world. But in the overpopulated island that the world will be, globalization (a word that is meaningless, at least to me) will mean that countries are only superficially Americanized. And whatever familiarity a traveler experiences will be misleading. In fact, many regions of the world will be just as territorial, tribal-minded, suspicious, and xenophobic as they are today.
The problems involved in traveling in the empty spaces that now exist will be nothing compared with the interminable negotiation that will occur in the future. Wild animals are rarely a problem anywhere; the only real danger anyone is likely to face is another human being.
Amazingly, just a dozen years ago some people in the Highlands of New Guinea could still recall the day in 1930 when they saw their first outsiders-Australian gold-seekers-whom they took to be their zombified ancestors, traipsing back from the dead.
Even today, some hinterlands in the world still exist. God bless the thoughtful islands/ Where never warrants come, Kipling wrote. But of course it is only a matter of time before they are violated. I have witnessed such a transformation in a number of countries. When I first traveled to Puerto Rico in 1961, Sicily in 1963, Uganda in 1966, Afghanistan in 1973, Honduras in 1979, the Upper Yangtze River in 1980, and Albania in 1993, I felt in each place that I was in a time warp. But after me came a deluge-soldiers, nationalists, tourists, developers, or civil war-and those places have been profoundly changed, if not corrupted in new and perverse ways.
Travel changes from year to year, because countries open and close, the world contracts and expands, countries and governments and frontiers alter. Yet the going is still good, and even at its most awful, travel can be illuminating, especially to an ironic wanderer who despises nuisance but takes a grim satisfaction in hardship.
Right next door, there are forbidden areas where no outsider dares to venture.
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These days you never hear anyone say,"We just got back from Algeria..." Algeria, one of the most dangerous places in the world, is right next to jolly Morocco and colorful Tunisia, the haunts of package tourists and rug collectors. This bizarre proximity highlights the old paradox that right next door, there are are still forbidden areas, terra incognita, where no outsider dares to venture.
In spite of our new connectedness, we have very little idea what is really happening in Algeria - or in North Korea, rural Tibet, or the eastern Congo. The Solomon Islands in the Western Pacific are not visited by many travelers, even today. For that matter, there are many uninhabited islands off the coast of Maine. The wooded, not-very-populous Malawi I first saw in 1964 as a Peace Corps volunteer is nothing like the deforested and overpopulated Malawi of today. A century hence, it will certainly be another place, awaiting rediscovery.
It is a pompous conceit to pretend that because a place has changed - or has lost its exoticism - it is not worth seeing; that very change qualifies it as a destination.
Of course, wealthy people will always pay to be dragged up Everest, or parachuted onto the Equator, or hurried in and out of Antarctica before frostbite can take hold, or to cruise luxuriously up the Amazon.
I once met the astronaut Buzz Aldrin and gushed over his achievement. He replied, "Your grandmother could do what I did." Fancy that! Granny in a spaceship, Granny being weightless, Granny saying, "Oh, dear!" when a solar panel breaks loose.
Much of futurology is idle speculation. We cannot know what the world will look like 100 years from now - travel is a human imperative. Enlightenment will always involve the poetry of departures.
Return to Beginning of story
Go to Visionary Adventures Introduction
The writer
Paul Theroux, author of the forthcoming Fresh Air Fiend: Travel Writings 1985-2000, is the critically acclaimed author of more than two dozen novels, memoirs, and books of travel.
The artists
Jay Kinney is a San Francisco-based writer, artist, and editor, and is co-author, with Richard Smoley, of Hidden Wisdom, recently published by Penguin/Arkana.
Paul Mavrides is well-known for his proselytizing on behalf of the SubGenius Foundation, for his work with Gilbert Shelton on the Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers, and for paintings, graphics, and numerous comics.
More about the contributors.
Article copyright © 1999 by Paul Theroux, first published in The New York Times, reprinted with the permission of The Wylie Agency, Inc. Illustrations copyright © 2000 by Jay Kinney and Paul Mavrides.
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