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North America
Nutcracker
Stolen Chimney
Ellingwood Arete
Disappointment Cleaver / Ingraham Glacier Route
Southwest Ridge, Canada
Jamapa Glacier, Mexico

Rest of the World
Normal Route, Kenya
Frontier Ridge, France
Cuillin Ridge, Scotland
South Face, Italy

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GORP Top Ten
Climbs for Novices
By Cameron M. Burns
Southwest Ridge
* Mount Temple, Canadian Rockies, Alberta

Mount Temple is often referred to as the "Eiger of the Canadian Rockies," because when viewed from the tourist mecca of Lake Louise, the 5,000-foot-high north face resembles—if only slightly—Europe's most famous north face. Mount Temple's north face certainly is one of Canada's most popular goals for the hard-core mountaineering crowd, but there are other routes on the mountain, including perhaps the easiest "classic" climb in the Rockies, the Southwest Ridge.

Benny Bach traversing a ledge on Mount Temple
On the mountain

This route starts south of Lake Louise in the fantastically beautiful Valley of the Ten Peaks (depicted on the back of the Canadian $20 bill), works its way up the southern slopes to the crest of the Southwest Ridge, then follows the ridge to the glaciated summit. From here, there are outrageous views in all directions, as Mount Temple is one of the Rockies' highest peaks.

The great thing about the Southwest Ridge is that it offers the beginning mountaineer a little bit of everything: altitude, scrambling, and glacier travel across the summit ice field.

It's a stimulating mixture that will challenge but not destroy.

Just the Facts
* First ascent: S. Allen, F. Frissel, Walter Wilcox, 1894
* Time required: 1/2 day
* Technical grade: IV, Class 4
* References: Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies
* by Sean Dougherty

* Canada Resources

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We've given you ten . . . Do you have a favorite novice climbing route that we did not include? Tell us about it.

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