It was bitter cold this morning. It snowed and sleeted last night, and ice covered my tent, clothes and bike when I awoke. Everyone but Joh and I were ready to go. We had planned for breakfast at a cafe, five miles away.

Any time a real breakfast was within ten miles, our group split into a 'fend-for-yourself' mode in order to be the first to get to warmth and a hot meal. With only five miles to go over a washboard-dirt road, I could bear the ever-so familiar numbing of my fingers and toes. Habitually, I began contracting the muscles in my hands and feet to ensure adequate circulation.

We ate at Flagg Lodge, in Ashton, Wyoming. By the time we were finished breakfast, the sun finally shone. Knowing that my buddy, Brad, was only 17 miles away, and that the sun was shining for the first time in days, I rode hard.

How can I describe the joy of bombing down a steep descent in the Tetons with a cheesy grin on my face? The RV drivers that filled most of the narrow road must have thought I was crazy.

Within three miles of Colter Bay, I spotted Brad. How cool to see my buddy from Salt Lake City on my trip! He had driven all the way from Idaho to try and find us and had finally caught up with us. We checked in at Colter Bay to the tent/cabin my friend Larry had arranged for us.

While we unloaded our wet gear and allowed it to dry in the sunshine, with the Tetons in full view, two Colter Bay employees delivered a couple beautiful fruit baskets that Larry and Dr. T (he's my"West Virginia father") had sent.

Everything was perfect. Colter Bay had all the luxuries — a laundry, showers, food and water — great weather and an epic view. Brad and his friend, Nick Bella, took us to Jackson for some dinner (awesome calzones) and dancing to reggae music. We were all like giddy schoolgirls. None of us had gone out in so long! Brad and Nick were the ultimate hosts.

On the drive home, we saw seven elk — and nearly hit one with the car. We finally bunked down at about 2:00 a.m., happily exhausted.

Move on to Colter Bay to the Falls

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