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Iraklion is home to the world's only comprehensive collection of Minoan artifacts, and is the gateway to Knossos, the major Minoan palace site. Beyond that, it has magnificent fortified walls and several other testimonies to the Venetians' time of power.

Iraklion is also big enough (Greece's 6th-largest city) and confident enough to have its own identity as a busy modern city. It often gets bad press simply because it's bustling with traffic and commerce and construction -- the very things most travelers want to escape. At any rate, give Iraklion a chance. If you follow some of the advice we proffer, you just may come to like it.

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